Saturday, July 21, 2018

What a Ride! Halls Creek to Mary Poole Rest Area - 112kms

Noisy neighbours last night. Aboriginal couples both sides, who talked loudly and non stop and played reggae/rap music. Just our luck!

The townsfolk are mainly indigenous, with a well stocked IGA and a bakery/cafe run by polite, charming Asian families.

Left at 5.30am and were surprised to see locals already squatting on the pavement in the main street.
Got off to a great start with a fairly flat road and strong tail wind. Rode flat out in 10km spurts and knocked off the kms quickly. Got extremely hot from 10.30am and we drank all our drinking bottles (5) dry. 

Wearing our caps under our helmets now to protect eyelids and noses from the midday sun. Also wearing home made protectors for the back of our necks.

Still in the East Kimberley region, but gradually leaving the ranges behind now and riding through the savannah - a flat, plain of short dry grass and thin, straggly trees.

Were running out of energy when we reached Mary Poole.
What a delightful surprise!
1 km off the road is a campers wonderland!
Lots of large, shady trees on flat ground by the Mary Poole River (now dry, with crocs when flowing) - and a  composting toilet. It's like a holiday park - very popular.
While Del was brewing the coffee, generous campers approached us with donations. Thank you so much Jan and Pete, Margaret and John.

Have another big ride tomorrow, so hope we get some shut eye tonight!

Friday, July 20, 2018

More Road Works! Bush Camp to Halls Creek - 60kms

Awoke at 4.00am, as usual. By torchlight ate our Weetbix with condensed milk and hot water, and packed. On the road by 6.30am.

The ranges appear further away now and we had some lovely downhill runs as we came down from the hills. 

The region is divided into large cattle stations and it took 2 days to pass just one!

Each day we cross innumerable dry creeks covered with footprints of thirsty animals. Also road flooding signs and markers round every corner. 

Saw a large flock of noisy, white cockatoos on trees by the roadside.
Negotiated two road works, and there was the usual mad dash to beat the opposing traffic. Road workers friendly and helpful.

Arrived in Halls Creek at 11.30am. Took a room at Halls Creek Motel at an exorbitant price - no other accommodation. 

An aboriginal community, so a dry area. No alcohol available until Broome!
Bought stores for the next stage of our trip and caught up on our chores.
Early bed and early start in the morning! 


Hills, Hills and More Hills! Warmun to a Bush Camp - 102kms

Left at day break - and hit the hills immediately! Slow progress, plodding up most and walking a few.
Saw more brumbies grazing in the shade and stopped to look at a metre long, live snake on the road- bleeding from the head but curled up aggressively as I approached. 

Stopped to eat our favourite lunch - fresh orange slices! 

Reached our designated rest area at 11.15am. Decided, as the road had flattened considerably, we'd continue on to the next rest area, 33kms away. Big mistake! Road instantly turned to more serious hills - and after 40+kms we still couldn't find the rest area! 

At 3.30pm, hot and exhausted, we pulled off the road and set up camp in the bush.
Night fell at 5.30pm, just as we finished our meal - tuna and noodles.
Very rough uneven ground, but we were glad to be off the bikes with somewhere to rest for the night, after virtually 10hrs pedalling.

Thursday, July 19, 2018

Hill Climbing! Doon Doon Roadhouse to Warmun Roadhouse - 92kms

Sleep interrupted last night - a feral dog howling set off a couple of campers' pooches. Also, two foals and a mare, who graze happily in the grounds, decided to go for an evening gallop around the campground. As if the rhythmic bore pump wasn't enough!

Left at 6.00am and instantly began a long, gradual climb. 

The hills and mountains of the range stretched as far as the eye could see - some flat topped, others conical, smooth mounds, or crumbling stones - they are described as "ancient". 

Spotted brumbies amongst the Bush. 

Head wind and gradual hill climbing slowed us down and the midday sun became very intense.
Saw an impressive, old boab tree that I had to photograph. 

The termites here are building the most grotesque, large mounds-often grey or pink depending on the soil.

Arrived at Warmun as a tour bus arrived. The tourists swamped us with donations which were much appreciated. 

Took a basic room, did our washing then planned for the days ahead in the remote outback.

 

Wednesday, July 18, 2018

A Tough Day! Kununurra to Doon Doon Roadhouse - 106kms

Left at daybreak, 5.30am WA time. Crossed over the Dunham and Ord River bridges.
Cycled all day through the rugged and imposing Kimberley Ranges, not unlike the Southern Alps, minus snow. 

Flocks of black cockatoos squawked and followed us as we rode along. 

Speedy, flat ride for the first 40kms - then the road turned to the southwest and we hit the headwind! Slow, tiring progress for the next 40kms!!
Feeling energy-less and hot, when we had an unexpected 5kms downhill! - then realised that we had actually been climbing for 40kms!
Arrived at Doon Doon Roadhouse at 2.00pm. It's small, tucked into the ranges and has a small caravan park attached - no accommodation - and no alcohol as the local aboriginal community is a dry one.
Put up the tent - after first downing a 1.5L bottle of fizzy Lift! Both of us are thirsty as!
Hamburgers for dinner in the roadhouse! Will definitely sleep well tonight!

Monday, July 16, 2018

Raring to Go! Last Day in Kununurra

At Kununurra, we're almost half way to Perth! Very exciting! 

Also quite scary as we have probably the most challenging sections yet to negotiate - long daily rides and many remote camps, painful seat pressure and stony camp sites.

We've enjoyed our break in Kununurra - eating and sleeping well - and Del got his fish and chips!

The town is dusty but with lovely green spaces - in the park and road islands - carefully nurtured with lots of watering. 

Walked to the Lily Creek Lagoon at the park's edge - a small, lily covered lake with moored houseboats and a variety of bird life. 

The town's greatest assets are its big, well established trees that supply all important shade, especially in the intense afternoon heat. Spotted a group of black cockatoos. They can do considerable damage to the trees, stripping their precious leaves.

We've loaded up on water, dried food and gas canisters and Del's checked out the bikes and trailers. We're good to go. Should make Broome by the end of the month.  
Plan to leave at 5.30am tomorrow for another 100+kms ride.

 

Relaxing and Stocking Up! Rest Day in Kununurra, WA

Woke at 5.00am! A hard habit to break! After a long, hot ride through the Carr Boyd Ranges yesterday, we found everywhere booked out at Kununurra. 

Offered a lovely room for one night only at the Kimberley Croc Motel then today moved into another more basic room for the next 2 nights.

Did a major clothes wash this morning. Dry in a few minutes!

We're right next to the small shopping centre. Takes 10 minutes to get around it!
Groups of aborigines sitting in the shade, under trees and on the pavement.
Today had our first trim flat whites and muffins since Katherine!
At Coles, stocked up on stores and water for the rest areas to come. All single use plastic bags now banned throughout Australia.

Relaxing and blogging this afternoon. Del's demanded fish and chips tonight! I reckon he's earned it!