Stocking Up! Rest Day in Broome

So lucky with the location of our motel - close to Coles, bike shop and camping supplies. It's in the Chinatown quarter - a bustling area with popular cafes and boutique shops. Famous for its pearls, specialist pearl shops line Dampier Terrace, by the Broome River. Pearl diving in the region was originally introduced by the Japanese.

Del cleaned and lubed the bike chains and bought a thorn proof tube for my rear tyre. He has one in his rear tyre, too, and has had no problem with it since. Fingers crossed! 

Meanwhile, I went for a quick, much needed hair cut. 

Had a tasty vegetarian quiche and salad for lunch then off to Coles for 15L water and food for the next camps.

Another Milestone! Roebuck Plains Roadhouse to Broome - 34kms

Yay! We've made it to Broome! Left the Roadhouse at 7.30am, in daylight for a change!

A leisurely ride with a long, gradual incline and occasional head wind all the way to Broome. A reasonable shoulder to cycle on, which we appreciated as the traffic was very busy in both directions.
Around 10kms from Broome, I developed a puncture in my rear tyre which Del fixed.

Arrived around 11.00am and greeted by Peter and then Bindy with donations. Thank you both for your kind words and support.

Took a room at the Roebuck Bay Motel then off to find Broome Bikes to buy a thorn proof inner tube, chain lube, a puncture kit and new cycle glasses for Del (his others were disintegrating slowly).

Love Broome! It's small but touristy, with cafes, restaurants and gift shops.
The Japanese introduced pearl diving to the area. 

Spending 3 nights here, resting, restocking and discovering more of this popular town.

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page   

Floods! Nillibbubica Rest Area to Roebuck Plains Roadhouse - 72kms

A freezing start at 5.00am this morning - fingers, toes, lips numb with cold. Even struggled to mouth the words to "Sun Arise"! 

Straight, flat road - should have been the perfect ride except for 40kms of unmanned road works!
Record rainfall in the rainy season had resulted in swollen creeks and rivers and flooded roads. 

This area of the Great Northern Highway and plains was severely affected, which explains the healthy rivers and creeks we saw yesterday.  Areas of the bush are still under water. 

Road damage is major with potholes, corrugation, edges of road washed away etc. With so much bumping, we were concerned for our rear axles, which take the weight of the trailers. 

Arrived at the Roadhouse at 11.00am, had early lunch, then settled into our tiny, budget room to do our chores. 

This is big cattle rearing country - and they're very proud of it - statues and photos everywhere.
Steak tastes good, too - even in the hamburgers! 

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page   

 

4,000kms! Willare Bridge Roadhouse to Nillibubbica Rest Area - 60kms

Yay! Yesterday we completed 4,000kms of the trip!

Note to self: Dongas are cheap accommodation that attract young backpackers and seasonal workers who keep unusual hours! A disturbed night!

Left at 5.00am and made great progress, though fingers and toes were frozen to start.

Each time the sun comes over the horizon, we can't resist singing Rolf Harris' "Sun arise, come in de mornin" - all the verses! 

Rode across several rivers, a lake and a creek, full of water for a change. Thought we saw a crocodile snap at a bird in Cockatoo Creek. 

Arrived at the Rest Area far too early - about 11.00am. Decided to have a relaxing day, rather than cycle further. 

Fortunate because Del found another puncture in my rear tyre that he had to fix. 

Sheila and Bob made a donation to the cause. Many thanks to you both for your support. 

A searingly hot afternoon. Glad to be off the road and in the shade.

Eating and drinking the last of our supplies. Must do some serious restocking when we get to Broome!

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page   

 

Eclipse of the moon! Boab Tree Rest Area to Willare Bridge Roadhouse - 75kms

In bed by 6.00pm last night. Photographed the full moon from the tent window.

Determined to miss the afternoon heat (it's been in the mid 30s for weeks now), got up at 3.00am today to prepare for a 5.00am get away. 

The moon was under eclipse - a beautiful sight - in a clear, star studded sky. No time for photos, though, as we packed everything by torchlight.

Very unusual feeling, seeing only the beam of our bikes on the road and everything else in total pitch black. 

We've been cycling on the edge of the Great Sandy Desert for some time now. Would explain the intense heat and parched, sandy soil. 

Apart from a few long,  gradual climbs, we flew along and reached Willare Bridge by 11.00am.
As we arrived, Doug and Alice approached with donations. A big thank you to both.

Took a donga for a night. These very small, basic and often prefabricated rooms have no luxuries like coffee and tea sachets, shampoo etc, but we're pleased to be sleeping in a bed tonight.

Some little critter has found its way into my clothes and I'm sporting some fiery looking, itchy bites. Luckily have cream and, if needed, antihistamine tablets in the first aid kit.

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page   

Another Flattie! Ellendale Rest Area to Boab Tree Rest Area - 68kms

Slept soundly and awake by 4.00am ready for an early get away. Found the flat tyre that Del fixed last night was flat again!

Changed the tyre and tube this time, to make sure. Still, got away by 6.00am.

Lovely flat, straight road, with a tail wind, meant we flew along for much of the ride, stopping every 10kms for water and a nibble (nut bar, dried fruit and nuts etc). 

Saw a recently dead, 2m long, brown and black python on the road. No more sunbathing on the warm bitumen for him!

Passed more cattle stations and the entrances to many aboriginal communities as we headed west, and into the Erskine Range.

Several long, gradual climbs until we reached the Boab Tree Rest Area. A pretty sparse area--no toilets or water--but its attraction is a beautiful, possibly 1000+ year old Boab Tree. It has a hollow centre, the size of a small room. Apparently their age can't be accurately measured because they have no annual growth rings. 

Claimed a camp spot then made our condensed milk coffee!

Before we had a chance to put up the tent, we received donations from Roy & Deb, John & Helen, Trevor & Gwen, Ana & Anneke, and Rita. Many thanks for your support, everyone.

A tiny silvery grey snake slithered away as we prepared the area for our ground sheet.
Spent the afternoon in the shade of the Boab tree doing our blog and journal and watching the caravans come and go. 

Heard recently that 800,000 grey nomads head to the warmer North every winter.
What a life!

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page   

We Did It! Fitzroy Crossing to Ellen Dale Rest Area - 87kms

Wish I could have taken a video of us hauling our bikes and heavily laden trailers down those steep stairs, at 4.45am, in the dark and trying to be as quiet as possible so as not to wake the neighbours. 

Del skinned his arm in the process but otherwise we managed it without a hitch. What a relief!

Took advantage of the early start and got 40kms under our belts, but soon hit long, gradual hills and headwind, which slowed us down to a crawl at times.

Arrived at Ellendale at 1.15pm - claimed a shady spot under a large tree, then rewarded ourselves with a couple of cups of condensed milk coffee.

No sooner had we arrived than Marion and Hildi approached us with donations. Thank you both so much.

Del discovered a puncture (number 12) in my rear tyre.

Tent up and puncture fixed, it was time to relax and catch up on our blog and journal, while caravan after caravan arrived and vied for the remaining spots.

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page 

Taking Stock! Rest Day In Fitzroy Crossing

The run down Taruda (Fitzroy) Caravan Park is right beside a well stocked IGA. It's recently been bought by the IGA owner, for his and his staff's accommodation. Caravan sites and the odd motel unit are taken by travellers.

The town's single "Shopping Centre" has more services than shops, as the photo shows.
Every passing vehicle raises clouds of dust. 

Like other towns in the Kimberley, it's a dry town. A large percentage of inhabitants are aboriginal. Many live in small, identical houses with solar heated hot water, built by the government.

We stocked up on food and water essentials for our next 3 days away from civilisation, then did a trial pack to fit it all in the trailers. 

Will need to carry back packs tomorrow unfortunately.
How on earth we'll get the bikes and now very heavy trailers down the stairs at 4.30am in the morning remains to be seen!

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page 

 

Early Start! Ngumban Rest Area to Fitzroy Crossing - 99kms

Del's inbuilt alarm clock got us up at 3.00am this morning. Breakfast and trailer packing takes around 2 hours, so we were ready to leave at 5.00am.

Getting out of the rest area was challenging -  pitch black, a 1km winding, unsealed road with numerous cul-de-sacs. Thank heaven for Del's navigation skills!

Made great progress in spite of several long, gradual inclines. 

Entering West Kimberley region now - fewer, smaller crumbling hills shaped by time and erosion.
Arrived at Fitzroy Crossing at midday and located the IGA! Called in for cold drinks. 

Ian, a dentist at the hospital and Phil, in his camper, stopped and gave us donations. Sincere thanks to you both.

Took a room in the caravan park for 2 nights. Decided that it was time we had  rest day.
The motel rooms are raised 3m off the ground to guard against flooding. We had to haul the bikes and trailers up a flight of 14 stairs! The things you do!

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page

Leaden Legs! Mary Poole Rest Area to Ngumban Rest Area - 89kms

Flocks of white cockatoos roosting in the trees and a myriad of bird calls lulled us to sleep. We slept soundly.

Off at 5.30am and straight into long, gradual hill climbs. The wind was not as cooperative today. We battled head and cross winds all the way along a straight, seemingly never ending highway.

Having done several days of long rides, we were both energy less and lethargic with the constant, strenuous pedalling.

Progress became slower and slower as the afternoon got hotter - 35 degrees we were told!

At 80kms a caravan pulled up and kind folk offered to fill our empty bike bottles and give us a cold drink. 

The rest from the pedalling, the companionship and the drinks did the trick - we were revitalised and battled on to the rest area. What a unique spot. It's on the top of a cliff overlooking the valley.
Very popular with the grey nomads.
 

As we set up camp, thoughtful folk from a nearby caravan offered us water, fruit and condensed milk.
We were very late getting our dinner organised, and were hurriedly finishing it as we lost the light at 5.30pm.

Del's determined to get us up an hour earlier tomorrow for an early getaway, to beat the afternoon heat. No need for an alarm when Del's around!

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page