Hill Climbing! Fortescue Roadhouse to Bush Camp - 88kms

Woke at 5.00am after a good night's sleep. Somehow managed to get the trailers out of the "rooms" and down the steep steps. Away by 6.45am and instantly hit the hills.

For 65kms the range unravelled before us and, to add to the challenge of the hills, we fought a cross/headwind as well.

Stopped at Robe River Rest Area to brew up condensed milk coffees and review plans.
As we'd plodded along, we quickly realised that, if the terrain was going to be as challenging tomorrow, we'd be lucky to complete the 119kms that we'd set ourselves. Decided to push forward as far as we could to reduce the mileage tomorrow and by 3.00pm start to look for a suitable spot to bush camp.

Managed to reduce tomorrow's ride to 75kms, then disappeared into the bush to camp.
Found a good spot, but had to walk through nasty, spiky grasses to get there. Finished up with grass spikes and small punctures in the legs. Here's hoping the tyres are OK in the morning.

Just had time to set up camp and have something to eat when the sun went down.
We'll sleep well tonight! 

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page     

Lone Riders! Karratha to Fortescue River Roadhouse - 113kms

Left Karratha at daybreak - together with all the workers heading for the nearby industrial estate and the local mines and quarries. Luckily there was a cycle lane which took us 7km to the turnoff to the North Western Highway. 

From there we saw little traffic at all. 

Passed hectares of grassy prairie and the occasional mine and quarry tucked into the hillside.
No termite mounds now - or boab trees - or bush for that matter!
The rare straggly tree stands alone in a sea of golden prairie grass. 

Cycled through the hills of the Helmsley Ranges on a flat road with a developing tail wind. Had a peep of the sea for a while. 

At 53kms we climbed over the range and into a barren landscape where grass had given way to a plain of low lying scrub.
Crossed several rivers and creeks - all dry except for the serene Maitland River and lovely Fortescue River which was next to the small roadhouse. 

No double rooms here so we took two adjacent dongas - in a sort of trailer housing 5.
So tiny - like living in a cake tin! Somehow managed to carry the trailers and bikes inside. 
The people who operate the bar apparently didn't turn up today, so no wine for us tonight - just a quick salad tea, then an early bed. 

Only two other couples here, in their caravans, so should be a quiet night.

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page    

Taking Stock! Rest Day in Karratha

Karratha is a relatively new city in the Pilbara region, established in 1968 to accommodate workers employed by the Hammersley Iron Ore Mining Company.

Flanked on 3 sides by hills, entry to the city is via Stovepipe Hill - with a strong headwind yesterday, this was too much for us and we walked the last 100m.

Now a modern, compact city (16,000 residents in 2016) attractive, new apartment blocks advertise shops beneath for lease.

The shopping centre, in the middle of the city, small by NZ standards, offers Woolworths, Coles, K Mart and Target.

With a series of long, rides through remote areas to come (678 kms from here to the next town, Carnarvon) we stocked up on necessities today ready for our take off tomorrow.

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page    

 

Passed 5,000kms today! Whim Creek to Karratha - 124kms

In 1870, the hotel was the hub of the mining village of Whim Creek. The local copper mine and the hotel are now the only things that remain of the village. Mine workers are housed in the hotel's dongas.

We slept well in our tiny donga.

Left at 7.15am expecting a 70km ride and a bush camp. Had a great ride on a flat road with a strong tail wind. 

Crossed the lovely Sherlock River.  Cycled through a rambling range of odd shaped, crumbling hills - beneath them, a flat, virtually treeless, grassy plain. Very little traffic and very remote. 

Soon realised that, without trees and bushes, a bush camp would be out of the question. With such a strong tail wind, we should push on to Karratha. 

Stopped at Roebourne garage for a sandwich lunch. 

Roebourne is a dying town with a rich, historical past. Most famous for  being a government inspired, aboriginal rehoming centre that went terribly wrong, resulting in serious lawlessness.
The tail wind continued until 7kms from Karratha, when we battled a very strong headwind into the city. 

No vacancies in the first two motels we stopped at. Eventually found success at Ibis Styles which is also close to Woolworths. 

Feeling tired after several consecutive, long rides. Will spend 2 nights here, preparing for the next long, stretch southwards.

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page 

 

White Knuckle Start! South Hedland to Whim Creek Hotel - 106kms

Left the motel at 6.00am and quickly got back on to the Great Northern Highway.

Large road trains - 4 trailers, ore toting monsters with 98 wheels - roared past in both directions, one after the other.

Stopped at a railway crossing, with road trains lining up, 6 deep, in both directions. A strong cross wind made control of the bikes difficult. 

At 30kms, we turned onto the North West Coastal Highway, leaving the road trains to continue inland. Battled on with a difficult cross wind on a flat, virtually treeless plain. Gradually the road snaked through a range of hills and the wind changed to a useful tail wind allowing us to get to Whim Creek by 2.00pm.

An old, historic hotel with limited upstairs rooms, dongas and a small caravan park, peacocks, cockatoos and quails wander round the grounds. Settled into a tiny donga, unpacked and reviewed tomorrow's plans. 

The caravan park we had planned to stay at has apparently closed, so another bush camp looks likely. 

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page     

 

Relaxing! Rest Day in South Hedland

Couldn't have picked a better motel for a rest day! In fact it appears to be the only one in town! Spacious, opposite the small shopping centre and on an easy exit route back to the main highway.

Buildings protected with high fences and shops with roll down security doors. 

Evidence of "villages" of worker accommodation. Saw one big block of windowless "boxes" and a tired apartment block.

A large, eye catching, blue and black leisure centre and a theatre provide activities for residents. Grassy areas are being encouraged here and there with regular watering.

Shopped for stores at Coles and approached by Ian with a donation. Much appreciated, Ian.

Slept heavily for a while during the afternoon.
Then packed the trailers and readied ourselves for another big ride tomorrow.

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page     

 

Time for a Break! Bush Camp to South Hedland - 58kms

Found the perfect spot for our Bush Camp - in a copse of bushes, metres away from the road. Didn't anticipate that this quiet road would become Road Train Central during the night. It was like camping in the middle of an airport runway! Thankful to have somewhere to lay our heads but didn't get much sleep.

Left at 7.15am on a lovely flat road with a slight tail wind. 

Rode past crumbling hills and grassland plains and crossed our first dry creek beds since reaching Roebuck Plains. Saw road trains, laden with hay bales and sacks of grain, heading to the drought stricken New South Wales farmers. Passed two large quarries where road trains and trucks passed regularly to and from Port Hedland.

Port Hedland and South Hedland are not the small towns we expected. They are thriving cities. Dusty, rough, bare - certainly not pretty! They exist to mine and export ore. Port Hedland is the biggest ore exporting port in the world. "Villages" of transportable units are provided for workers. 

Arrived in South Hedland around 1.00pm and, after several enquiries, found our motel.
Looking forward to a hot shower and an uninterrupted sleep! 

Will take a rest day tomorrow to catch up on chores and restock for the next part of the trip. 

➽ TO DONATE to our chosen charity, the Neurological Foundation of NZ via our GiveALittle Page